In the movie, Harry Potter, the scarf is different for the younger grades, than it is for the older grades. This is the older grade level’s scarf. It does look a little more sophisticated than the younger scarf.
This scarf is also longer than the first year’s scarf.
Hogwart Houses:
Gryffindor: Red and Gold (red being the primary color)
Ravenclaw: Blue and Bronze (The bronze looks gray to me so that is what I used. Blue is the primary color.)
Slytherin: Green and Silver (Green being the primary color.)
Hufflepuff: Black and Yellow (Yellow is the primary color.)
Crochet Materials Needed:
Red yarn- I used Caron- Claret
Yellow/gold yarn- I used Caron- Sunflower
H hook/ 5 mm
Scissors
Dimensions
7 inches wide
75 1/2 inches long
8 inches of fringe
Plain red sections split up by 2 yellow stripes and 1 red stripe. There are 10 sections of stripes. 11 sections of red squares.
Gryffindor Children’s Scarf
Ch 21
Row 1- 14: (Red) (Row 1- begins in the second ch from the hook.) sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 15-16: join with gold, sc across, ch 1 turn
Row 17-18: with red, sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 19-20: with gold sc across, ch 1, turn
Rows 21-210: – Repeat Rows 1-20
Rows 211-224: repeat rows 1-14. tie off
*Start with the red color and end with the red.
With the blunt yarn needle sew in the loose ends.
Fringe For Gryffindor Scarf
You need sections of red and gold that are 17- 18 inches long (4 strands in each group). Tie to the ends, by folding in half and using crochet hook, pull the middle of the folded strand through as one big group. You will have a loop now through your project. Pull the ends through the loop and it will tie them in a knot.
Start with red and end with red, alternating red and gold. (I did 15 groups, you can do more or fewer. Space them to your liking.)
*Make sure you tie them on the same side of the project. It doesn’t matter which side, just make sure you are pulling them through on the same side.
This is a great pattern for a warm, winter blanket for baby! The stitches are close together and it forms a thatching like a woven basket. I made a very large afghan using the basket weave stitch a couple of years ago. It is a more advanced pattern as you are working by putting your hook around the post of the previous rows dc. You do this either from the front of the project or the back of the project.
The stitches create a pattern across of 3 in front and then 3 in back. A pattern of 3 is also worked in the rows as the pattern remains the same for 3 rows and then alternates 3 rows that shift the order of going from front to back to back to front across. When you are done it looks like you could fold it into a basket.
This post contains affiliate links. I include these links for your convenience to be able to find similar items to what I am using. I earn a small commission for the referral, but your price remains the same.
Pay attention to the alternating pattern. Rows of 3 make the illusion of weaving rows and columns.
3 rows and 3 columns make it easy to double check your accuracy in the pattern.
Basket Weave Materials
Hook H
2 Large Skeins of yarn- baby sport- (I couldn’t find the name of the color I used or anything like it on Amazon)
Scissors
Needle for weaving in ends to finish off project
Basket Weave Instructions
Ch 111
H hook
Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch across, turn
Row 2: ch 2, sk 1st stitch, *fpdc in next through the front, fpdc next 2 dc, around the next dc come from the back and do a bpdc, bpdc next 2, continue * sets of 3, fpdc & 3 bpdc across, hdc in ch space, turn,
Rows 3 and 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: ch 2, sk 1st stitch, *bpdc around next dc through back, bpdc next 2 dc, fpdc around next 3 dc, * repeat (sets of 3 bpdc & 3 fpdc across, hdc in ch space, turn ch 2
*careful it is easy to make mistakes when alternating the pattern
Rows 6 and 7: repeat row 5
Rows 8-10: repeat row 2
Rows 11-13: repeat row 5
Rows 14-16: repeat row 2
Rows 17-19: repeat row 5
Rows 20-22: repeat row 2
Rows 23-25: repeat row 5
Rows 26-28: repeat row 2
Rows 29-31: repeat row 5
Rows 32-34: repeat row 2
Rows 35-37: repeat row 5
Rows 38-40: repeat row 2
Rows 41-43: repeat row 5
Rows 44-46: repeat row 2
Rows 47-49: repeat row 5
Rows 50-52: repeat row 2
Rows 53-55: repeat row 5
Rows 56-58: repeat row 2
Rows 59-61: repeat row 5
Rows 62-64: repeat row 2
Rows 65-67: repeat row 5
Rows 68-70: repeat row 2
Rows 71-73: repeat row 5
Rows 74-76: repeat row 2
Border
Row 77: at end of row 76 ch 3 and turn. Skip first stitch. Ch 3 is the first double crochet in this row. Dc in second stitch and all the way across to the end of the row. 3 dc in each corner and down each side. (last corner 3 dc, slip stitch in top of chain 3 chain.
Row 78: ch 1, *sk 2, dc 4 in next dc, ch 3, slip st in 1st ch just made, 4 dc in same stitch as 1st 4 dc , sk 2, sc, * repeat Join with a slip stitch in first stitch of row, tie off. Sew in ends.
Comfy, warm and pretty scarf. This pattern is similar to a honeycomb, in the way that it forms pockets. Even if those pockets are more diamond like instead of octagon shaped. I love the way this turned out! This is a more advanced pattern to make.
Note: This pattern alternates from front to back posts each row. Every other row of trfp (triple crochet front post) alternate between going in front of the first two trfp made or behind the first two trfp made. When behind the first two trfp made it is like crocheting in a sandwich because you are between the stitches you just made and the stitches in the previous row.
Look at how much pattern and texture there is in the Honeycomb stitch.
Multiple diamonds, illusion of Xs, raised squiggles that run against one another forming diamond shapes and the honeycomb holes.
This yarn is so much fun to use as it goes from one color to another. The backside of the scarf.
Materials
This post contains affiliate links. I include these links for your convenience to be able to find similar items to what I am using. I earn a small commission for the referral, but your price remains the same.
Yarnspirations- Bernat Pop!- 5 oz- foggy notion
Hook- N or 15 or 10.00 MM Needles to sew the yarn ends in with. Scissors for trimming ends after sewing the ends in.
Definitions
ch-A chain doesn’t go through a stitch. A chain is made by starting with a slip stitch or if you are in the middle of a piece and it calls for a chain you yarn over and pull through the one loop that is on the hook.
sc- Single crochet: Put hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over pull through two, leaving one loop on the hook
dc- Double crochet yarn over, go through stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over, pull through two, yarn over pull through last two, leaving one loop on the hook
tr=Triple crochet- similar to double crochet, but you yarn over twice instead of once, then, go through the stitch, yarn over pull through the stitch, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two and then yarn over and pull the last two off. You should have one left on your hook.
fp=Front post this means that instead of crocheting in the top of the stitch like you normally do, you put your hook around the front of the dc post and create your stitch there. (It’s a lot like weaving with your hook, around the post, starting on the front side of your piece.)
This is the backside of the scarf. It has ridges from crocheting in the front posts.
bp= Back post, insert hook around the back of the post instead of crocheting on the top. You have the piece facing you but crochet on the opposite side. This makes a ridge on the front side.
dcbp and trfp are combining the stitch and where that stitch is made. So, dcbp means to double crochet in the back post.
Trfp means to triple crochet around the front post.
Pattern Directions For the Busy Bee Honeycomb Scarf
Chain 27
Row 1: In 3rd chain from hook dc and in each stitch across. 25
Row 2: ch 2 skip 3 dc, trfp around the 4th dc post, trfp around next dc, (this is a little tricky, trfp behind the first 2 trch made to get to the front of the dc. Basically you are crocheting between the dc made in the last row and the trfp made in this row.) trfp around first skipped dc post and then around the next skipped dc post, skip over the first two trfp and skip the next two dc posts, trfp around next 2 dc; this time, go in front of the trfp, repeat from* This pattern will create 3 “Vs” across
Row 3: ch 2 dcbp across, around each tr. Dc in last stitch of row (not around but in it).
Row 4: ch 2 skip 3 dc, trfp around the fourth dc post, trfp next dc, trfp across the front of the two trfp you just made and trfp in the second skipped dc and then in the next dc, skip the first two trfp you made and the next 2 dc, trfp around next dc, trfp around next dc, behind those two trfp you just made tcfp
Row 5: ch 2, dcbp across, around each tr. Dc in chain stitch.
Row 6- 88: Repeat rows 2-5
Row 89: ch 1, sc across in each dc.
Cable stitch to finish
Row 90: ch 1 sc *ch 3 sk 2 sc in next sc, turn, sc back in each 0f the ch 3 you made, slip st in sc, turn, sc in 2 skipped sc repeat across from *
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